None of my cats have ever had a problem with litter box training except mercedes, sometimes she will miss the box or not bury her waste and now she has started to pee on the carpet. I think this could be a reaction to me moving the litter box? Also she was a stray for 1.5 years so maybe she isn´t as set on using the box as the other two are?

Some cats seem a bit clumsy or inaccurate shen using the liter box. It could be that she does not like the litter granules or does not like sharing the litter box with the others. Is the area around the box scrupulosly clean? Lingering oudour could be confusing her.

she might need a box of her own. some cats are picky about where the do their "business". I don´t think being a stray is the reason why she pees on the carpet, I had a cat who was a stray and he caught on to the liter box right away. also try to "remind" her where her liter box is at, when mimmi was kitten, she had a hard time with liter training and pee and poop everywhere. so just like a puppy, every hour or so I picked her up and showed her to the liter box. When she does her "business", kinda praise her and give her a treat. I know that sounds silly but it worked with mimmi.

Has Mercedes been checked for a urinary tract infection? Does she look like she´s straining to pee? If she has UTI, it´s painful for her to pee and she might be going outside the box because she associates the box with the pain.

I am with maracatmm, whenever a cat starts peeing in spots that is abnormal for them, I take them straight to the vet with a wee sample. A quick test with a dip stick thing and they can diagnose quickly. So far everytime one of our cats starts weeing where it shouldn´t has turned out to be a UTI. Skitz and My Mum´s cat Luigi are prone to them. You can even just take a wee sample to the vet and they can test it quickly for you.
to get a wee sample, watch your cat and when you see them ready to wee, pop them in an empty tray. Then pour some wee into a small container and there you go, a wee sample. Good Luck.

I have a 13 year old neutered cat and a six month old kitten (both boys). Recently the 13 year old has started spraying on my clothes, in my bag and on the floor (had never done it before) and last night the kitten peed on the carpet not sprayed but peeed obviously apart from the smell it is frustrating and really tough to get out the smell. I have replaced some of the things sprayed on thinking that would help it apparently hasn´t any suggestions on how to stop the behaviour would be appreciated.

Caster, it may be, that your cat is spraying out of stress caused by the presence of the kitten. This is quite common behaviour. The only solution is to make sure, that the older cat´s old routine is not disturbed and the kitten does not encroach on his patch. This is not easy, obviously, by try to make a fuss of the older cat and keep the kitten at bay a little.

I just went through this with Booboo and he had a UTI. He NEVER went potty out of his litter box and all of a sudden he started. Even peed in front of me and hubby in bed!!!!! It wasn´t until the 2nd day I kept watching him closely and noticed blood in his pee then knew exactly what his problem was. Now he´s all fixed up and back to the littler box. I don´t know if he was associating the box for pain so much as doing it in front of us as to tell us there was something wrong because he would still use it. He basicly lived in that box until the UTI went away.

both the cat and the kitten (boys) are desexed and it is only recent behaviour for both of them to be peeing/spraying. The older cat is is meds for anxiety and the kitten isn´t at the moment but am wondering if it is stress from him too. He has peed on the carpet not sprayed but peeed a couple of times in recent days. obviously apart from the smell it is frustrating and really tough to get out the smell I cant afford to keep replacing the carpet.

i have amale cat that has undropped testickles that i cant do the operation its very difficult so he sprays meaows all the symptems yes he pees and i have carpets evrywhere yes it stinks UTI test thats difficult to trace the cat and make him complete his pee in the tray i really dont no how i can do that smell and stopping to pee well lemon juice i spray lemon juce wherever i can he hates that somehow.also using bakingsoda on the carpets remove stains and minmises the smell abit.

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i have amale cat that has undropped testickles that i cant do the operation its very difficult so he sprays meaows all the symptems yes he pees and i have carpets evrywhere yes it stinks UTI test thats difficult to trace the cat and make him complete his pee in the tray i really dont no how i can do that smell and stopping to pee well lemon juice i spray lemon juce wherever i can he hates that somehow.also using bakingsoda on the carpets remove stains and minmises the smell abit.
You need to find a vet, who will operate on your cat.

Help. My cat likes to pee under my daughters bed and on my husbands dirty work clothes. She does not have a UTI. What can I do?

Be careful what you clean the area with - I used to use bleach based products until I was told that bleach based products smell like urine to cats and it actually encourages peeing!!! The products like "Off" which we get here in NZ are really good for stopping cats peeing where they shouldn´t. Also I use a product called Odarid which is great for getting out odors/stains, then I use the "Off" and it seems to cure it.

The website for the Odarid is www.odarid.co.nz Pee odor remover

I think they send overseas but if not send me a catmail if you are interested and I could send you some

I got a receipe online a little while ago. It was called the "Stink Away" recipe. I have problems with pee smells and I had tried everything and you could smell it a bit but worse of all the cats could smell it and kept peeing in the same place. Anyway, I was going crazy so went online to find something to take away the odor. I actually paid $8.00 for the receipe but I think it was worth it. I´ll copy and paste what was sent to me so you can try it out for yourselves.

Stink-Away Recipe

16 oz. (2 cups) hydrogen peroxide (3% solution)

2 tsp. baking soda

2 small drops of dishwashing liquid or liquid hand soap

1.Before beginning treatment, if the urine spot is fresh, blot up as much as
possible with a dry cloth or paper towels. Do not use your foot to do this
as you may get some of the urine on your shoes and track it elsewhere on your
carpet. If this happens, your pet will pick up the scent and be more
likely to repeat the accident in the same area that they smell the urine.

2. If the urine has dried and you are not sure where the soiled area is,
you can use a black light to find the stain. In a dark room, the black light
will identify the urine soaked area rather easily because it will show up as a
very light yellow color. If it shows up bright white, it is not a urine stain.

To begin, put all the ingredients in a clean jar or plastic container and
mix gently until the baking soda is thoroughly dissolved.
Pour the formula over the urine spot, making sure you completely saturate
the area. Bear in mind that below the carpeting, the spot has spread out
significantly into the carpet pad so you need to pour the mixture over an
area that is quite a bit larger than what you see as the stain on the surface. It is
very important to do this or else you will not be getting enough of the mixture to cover the
area that has spread out underneath. STOP!! Do not rub in the mixture or scrub it
in any way. Just leave it be for about 24 hours so it can begin to dry.

After about 24 hours if the area is still wet, again blot with either paper
towels or a dry cloth without rubbing. Continue to let the area dry. When
it is completely dry, vacuum the carpet. You may notice a whitish residue from
the baking soda--it should come up with the vacuum or else you can wipe it
off with some water on a sponge.
Please note, this mixture works best when made fresh. While you can make it
in advance to have on hand, I don´t recommend doing this. For one thing, the
ingredients are so inexpensive, it is easy to make a fresh batch when
necessary.

Also, you can not store this mixture in a closed jar or container because it
will explode due to the combination of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide
which releases oxygen when combined causing pressure which will pop the top off of
a container! Do not let that alarm you--the mixture is perfectly safe, it´s
just a chemical reaction that causes oxygen to be released which will cause the
top of a jar or container to pop off.

The treatment may need to be repeated depending on what you are trying to
clean.
It usually takes only 1 to 2 treatments when used on carpeting, but hard
surfaces such as concrete, wood, or tile may need several treatments--one
per day for a few days. Make sure you let the concrete completely dry out
before beginning another treatment. If you are doing this in a basement with a
concrete floor, it can be helpful to use a dehumidifier or fan to help dry
out the area. It may take a few days to completely dry out, please be patient.
PLEASE NOTE!
Sometimes when you begin treatment, wetting the area with the formula can
make the odor seem worse at first. Do not panic--this is temporary and will go
away after the solution has had time to work and dry out the area. If at all
possible, ventilate the room you are treating by opening windows or running
a fan.
If you have done the treatment a couple of times and the urine odor persists
I recommend waiting a few days for the area to completely dry out. Also, don´t
repeat a second treatment until the area is completely dry. It takes a bit
of patience, but many times, taking the extra time to let the area dry out
completely will be all you need to remove the odor.

You may already know this ... but my cat, Kimmy has two litter trays and they have different cat litter in each one. One is ´ordinary´ cat lit and the other is paper cat-litter. Kimmy uses one for one function and the other for er, the other. She rarely gets them mixed up and needless to say I keep them very clean with newspaper for her to rip up afterwards. Maybe your cat doesn´t like using the same litter tray for both things ...I know it sounds picky and maybe it is not practical but could you let her have two trays? I was told Olbas oil was good for deterring them from peeing wherever ... they hate the smell. But cats are very very clean so there has to be a reason. A few people have said stress.

i now have two litter trays, am keeping them outside as much as possible and unfortunately are going to have to replace the affected areas of carpet and underlay they also have some sort of anti bacterial spray they put on the concrete underneath that is supposed to get rid of it there. I will also have to keep my bedroom door shut from now on as i do not want new carpet stuffed too.

I wish I had a quick solution to offer you. Having had a large multi-cat household for years, we have dealt with our share of litter box traumas.

Cat litter box issues can be very complicated. Some things they can be related to include:
physical health (UTI)
mental health (cat had a traumatic issue in the box that frightened it)
territorial marking (yes, pee is territorial like spraying)
returning to old urine smells
dislike of litter type
not enough boxes (some cats need 2 of their own w/ 1 for each function...some cats will NOT go where others have)
dislike of litter box (some don´t like hoods...others don´t like them open)
box not being in a private enough location
box not offering a means of escape (cats who feel "cornered" in a box may become too skittish to use it...they like to know they can flee an uncomfortable situation)

With all that said...it can take some work to resolve your issue.

Always start by assuming that it is physical. Make certain there is no UTI. Then what´s left is to go from there and address each possible issue, giving time as you try each solution to see if it resolves things.

I´d begin by adding boxes. You have 2 cats, so have 3 boxes minimum.

If that does not work, try relocating the boxes, other litter types, etc.

One option that we have tried with 2 of our boys is crate training. It is generally a last resort. Put the cat in an area that ONLY gives room for the litter box, food, water, and a place to lie down. Medium sized dog crates are usually good for this. Cats generally will not urinate or defecate near their food nor where they sleep. This method means that the cat will need to be crated much of the day. Only have the cat out when he/she can be closely supervised. Do not worry that this is cruel. Remember that cats sleep approx 16 hours, so a small area is not bad. Just make certain that kitty gets plenty of exercise, play, and attention when out. If this seems to be succeeding, keep at it. Don´t assume that the situation is resolved too quickly. Do this until you feel CERTAIN your cat has the behavior down. You can use this crated time to work on thoroughly cleaning the soiled areas of your home.

I know from personal experience that dealing with house soiling is stressful and takes a lot of patience and observation. But if you can resolve the problem, you and your kitties will be happier for it! Good luck and keep us posted.